What I love about art is the vast array of crafts it embraces. Readers of THE GAZE may recall our Spotlight feature on the breathtaking Kamer-Ruf collection, a historical compilation of haute couture and textiles showcasing centuries of mastery. Today, we turn our focus once more to haute couture appreciating the enduring creativity that this art form has to offer.
On the occasion of his fashion show, I had the privilege of previewing the Autumn-Winter collection of Raphael Blechschmidt, Basel's last remaining haute couture designer. Stepping into his world, the catwalk transforms into a gallery of living art. "Vibrations de Couleurs," the show's theme, immerses the onlooker into a universe of radiance and undulating waves, creating an experience that reverberates through every detail of the spectacle.
The garments are fashioned from the finest fabrics, by Armani, Missoni or inspired by Coco, and feature simple yet sophisticated cuts. Exquisite silken scarves are loosened from the neck to float and quiver around the models' gestures. Gorgeous jackets are shed to reveal soft and sensual jumpsuits, gowns and tops. Vibrant colours accentuate natural tones. Each garment exudes meticulous attention to detail, perfectly complementing the wearer's attributes. Graceful choreography harmonises with music from the Basel Symphony Orchestra, resulting in a shimmering three-dimensional concert of colours.
The show is beautifully staged across eleven scenes, each with its unique identity. Here's a soupçon of the stunning outfits unveiled:
Images from scenes one & two
Opening the show with "Vibrations de l'automne," the first scene features a lavender-coloured short coat made of alpaca wool paired with a trouser suit crafted from Armani fabric. The cool, graceful lavender jacket brings a sense of serene sophistication, wrapping the wearer in an air of effortless elegance.
"Vibrations de l’horizon," the second scene, captures the essence of new horizons. It includes a striking long blue jacket, paired perfectly with patterned silk trousers and an ice-blue silk blouse with cross decoration. Also on show is a wonderful combination featuring a silk tunic in the transverse run, paired with dark blue trousers. Both outfits beautifully reflect the theme of exploring new possibilities.
Images from scenes three, four & five
The third scene, "Vibrations de blanc," showcases an ivory-coloured jacket inspired by Coco, jupe and Georgette blouse, evoking, quite simply, the timeless style of Grace Kelly.
"Vibrations maritimes," the fourth scene, portrays a short soft green bolero jacket with quilting. which beautifully accentuates the charm of a silk jumpsuit featuring green, pink and red tones and reminiscent of vibrant coral reefs. The look is further enhanced by a pastel pink scarf, creating a harmonious ensemble that transports the viewer inwardly to an underwater paradise.
In "Vibrations d'elegance," the fifth scene, the delicateness of an Etro silk dress, with paisley-style print, epitomises femininity. The sophisticated fabric design also coalesces flawlessly in the preceding skirt and blouse combination, which features a collarless asymmetrical cashmere jacket paired with a straight skirt and a silk blouse adorned with cue de rats.
Images from scenes six & seven
The sixth scene, "Vibrations des tissus Armani," exudes the refined sophistication associated with Armani fabrics. It presents a chic look for the woman about town by proposing a short, loose jacket with a cut collar and a lilac-coloured wool dress adorned with organza decorations. This ensemble captures the essence of modern luxury and understated glamour.
"Vibrations de couleurs," the seventh scene, draws the onlooker’s attention by presenting a striking green taffeta jacket with quilted seams, paired with a flowing skirt and sleeveless top that spontaneously oozes flair. In addition, a long silk coat, rich in hues and paired with dark blue woollen trousers, gives another brilliant take on this colourful theme.
Images from scenes eight & nine
In "Vibrations entre noir et blanc," the eighth scene, a gorgeously tailored striped jacket with a spade collar, black wool trousers, and a white silk blouse come together in a fabulous look. The black and white theme is set off perfectly by a brightly coloured neckerchief, adding a vibrant touch to this polished ensemble.
"Vibrations de la broderie velours", the ninth scene, highlights the luxurious texture of velvet. A gorgeous long green jacket in this fabric, when slipped off, reveals an elegant dark blue jumpsuit with an entre-deux neckline. The seamless transition from lush velvet to the sleek jumpsuit encapsulates the collection's exploration of rich fabrics and refined style.
Images from scene ten
The tenth scene, "Vibrations des vagues de perles," offers a sumptuous display of soft evening wear, including a stunning long dark blue embroidered tulle gown with an American neckline and Georgette cape. Glistening beads add to the sense of enchantment, as the dress and cape effortlessly float with the model across the runway.
Images from scene eleven
The eleventh scene, "Vibrations entre velours et transparence," is the show's captivating finale. An indulgent black cape coat with a train reveals a long, fiery red velvet gown with undulating slits, lighting up the stage while providing daring glimpses of flesh.
What an extravaganza! I reflect.The collection blurs the lines between clothing and artwork, inviting us to wear our identities as confidently and expressively as we would display a revered painting in our home. But before wrapping up, I must highlight how the exquisite hats and jewellery perfectly complement each ensemble, elevating the overall experience to untethered heights. These carefully chosen accessories add an extra layer of sophistication and pizzazz to each outfit. Setting off the elements beautifully, they provide the yin to a fabulous yang. More than a mere fashion show, it was a masterpiece created by Blechschmidt and his brilliant team, affirming the incredible power of haute couture as a form of self-expression.
Photography
By Dominique Zahnd
Website: dominiquezahnd.com
Milliner
Chapeau: Maria Hiepler.
Enquiries:Tel: +41(0)61 272 77 74, Website:chapeau.ch
Jeweller:
Seiler Juwelier, Gerbergasse 89, 4051 Basel
https://seiler-juwelier.ch Tel. +41 (0)61 560 12 00
Raphael Blechschmidt Team:
Raphael Blechschmidt, Claudia Anklin, Lara Hürbi, Marc Kaiser, Caroline Leimgruber - Administration, Ilona Prick - Apprentice, Yenifer Rettig - Intern, Sabine Roos, Stefanie Schärer, Leandra Semling, Viera Tschachtli, Ruwen Wyden - Apprentice Katrin Zbinden
Enquiries: Tel: +41 (0)61 271 25 26, Website: raphaelblechschmidt.ch
© Copyright Hazel Clarke 2024
Love the article, which describes the elegance of the ocassion and costumes perfectly ! A great read!
Inspiring ✨
😍